Issue 07: Las Cruces
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In Issue 07, you’ll arrive at the heart of southern New Mexico’s high desert, in the city of Las Cruces. Settle beneath the open skies, and share a meal with the home cooks of the region—among them, a generational chile farmer, an artist exploring traditional Mexican dishes, an outdoor adventurer passionate about crafting nourishing meals, and a sourdough hobbyist whose curiosity grew into a life rooted in the land.
Stretching across both sides of the Rio Grande, Las Cruces is a place where flavor carries history, where generations of growers have learned how to listen to this landscape, and where the meals that are made reflect both the land and the hands that tend to it.
In Las Cruces, the community shows up in everyday acts of care. Farmers bring milk to local shops, home cooks wrap burritos in fresh-pressed tortillas to feed the crews building and shaping the region, and recipes passed down through generations teach families how to make nourishing meals with what they have.
A Taste of Issue 07: Las Cruces
From Mexico to New Mexico
As a tattoo artist and muralist, Anahy Nuñez preserves stories with her hands for a living. It is no different when it comes to her family’s pozole recipe—carried from Chihuahua, Mexico, to Las Cruces across miles and generations, and still simmering in her kitchen today.
Hard Land, Sweet Cream
Brooklyn Turner tends Jersey cows along the Rio Grande, where the water only stretches so far, summers test the herd, and winters come in cold and bitter. From it, she makes a life—and brown butter pecan ice cream.
Distilling the Desert
After years spent fighting wildfires across the American West, Chris Schaefer came home to Las Cruces with a new mission—capture the flavors of the desert in small-batch spirits. Dry Point Distillers has been bottling the landscape ever since.
The Challenge of the Flauta
While most busy cooks are always on the lookout for shortcuts, Veronica Giron embraces every cooking challenge that comes her way—especially when that means hand-rolling hundreds of chicken flautas for a catered event. “I think it’s fun,” she said. “It’s like a mental thing. I’m like, ‘I can roll 12 in two minutes flat. Let’s see if I can roll more.’”
Pecan Clouds Over New Mexico
Pecans are a big deal in southern New Mexico. It might be surprising to see such green amidst the Chihuahuan Desert, but there’s a history behind all those trees—and, of course, some delicious recipes. Artist Gabriele Teich shares what she loves so much about this corner of the Southwest, along with her recipe for pecan clouds.
Bold Flavors for Big Days
When Jessica Gomez was looking for healthy dishes to fuel a more outdoorsy life, she started experimenting with recipes from her Mexican American heritage that didn’t compromise on flavor. The bold spice and easy prep of aguachile fit the bill, especially after a long day hiking in the Organ Mountains.
Less Is More in Las Cruces
Growing up watching her mother stretch a few ingredients into a full dinner, Marcy Valenzuela-Toste learned early that simple food could be something wonderful. She hasn’t stopped sharing that idea since.
The Tamale Tradition
“It’s a tradition, our culture as Hispanics, as Mexicans. It’s something you pass down to your kids. My kids are always exploring, but they also want to learn to do what I do,” said Maria Elena Salinas. She learned the art of tamal-making from her mother, Lorenza Ferrales, whose time-honored recipe was written down for the first time to be published in this issue.
A Hatch Chile Legacy
For over 100 years, the Hatch Valley has been home to the distinctive chiles that flourish in this region. One family has played a particularly large role in that tradition—five generations of Franzoys, starting with Austrian immigrant Joseppi Carlos Franzoy and his wife, Celestina, in 1917.
A 130-Year-Old Start
What started as 50 loaves at the Las Cruces farmers market has grown into New Mexico’s largest sourdough bakery—green chile cheddar Jack loaves, purple ube sourdough, and a 130-year-old starter at the center of it all.
Hatch Chiles and Hard Work
“Construction is a hard job. The crew is out in the sun or the cold for hours, and a warm burrito makes them feel appreciated,” said Renee French. For over three decades, she’s been making burritos for the crews who work for her husband’s business—roasted Hatch chiles, fresh-pressed tortillas, and a jam that belongs on everything.
La Posta de Mesilla
In 1939, when Katy Griggs bought a crumbling building on Mesilla’s main plaza owned by her uncle, he sold it to her for “one dollar, love, and affection.” She wanted to open a restaurant that showed off traditional Mexican food produced in the Mesilla Valley. Eighty-seven years later, La Posta de Mesilla is still doing exactly that.
Vintage Americana, Extra Chile
When Josie and Teako Nunn opened Sparky’s in Hatch, they invited diners into their world of vintage Americana—classic dishes, chile-laced twists, and funky décor to match. “Everything inside and out and on the menu is an expression of our fascination with classic Americana roadtrip culture,” Teako said.
Red or Green?
Sandra Morrow and her husband grow chiles (and other crops) on their farm in Hatch. Even though she was born and raised in Texas, the spicy, fruity scent of chiles smells like home. And while Hatch is most known for its green chiles, Sandra prefers red ones, handpicking “fresh reds” and transforming them into the sauce anchoring her Hatch Valley enchilada plate.
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